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Chemistry 19 Online
OpenStudy (anonymous):

does anyone one know anything about muratic acid

OpenStudy (anonymous):

@BriannaBear @SneliS @Smileyside

OpenStudy (anonymous):

yes

OpenStudy (anonymous):

can i ask u a couple of questions

OpenStudy (anonymous):

yes

OpenStudy (anonymous):

"Hydrochloric acid is a clear, colorless, highly pungent solution of hydrogen chloride in water. It is a highly corrosive, strong mineral acid with many industrial uses. Hydrochloric acid is found naturally in gastric acid" _-Definition

OpenStudy (anonymous):

Question: What Is Muriatic Acid? Answer: Muriatic acid is one of the names for hydrochloric acid. It is also known as spirits of salt or acidum salis. "Muriatic" means "pertaining to brine or salt". The chemical formula for muriatic acid is HCl.

OpenStudy (anonymous):

@BriannaBear i know what it is im getting ready to use it for a science experimen

OpenStudy (anonymous):

ok, sorry..........

OpenStudy (anonymous):

is it harmful to rubber @SneliS

OpenStudy (anonymous):

its fine

OpenStudy (anonymous):

no it is fine because you have to wear rubber gloves while pouring it :)

OpenStudy (anonymous):

it says tho its harmful to human skin

OpenStudy (anonymous):

yes that's why you have to wear gloves

OpenStudy (anonymous):

oh i miss read it so it wont burn through the rubber

OpenStudy (anonymous):

yup

OpenStudy (anonymous):

is harmful to clothing

OpenStudy (anonymous):

it can stain but not burn

OpenStudy (anonymous):

how about plastic (sorry bout all questions dont want something to go wrong)

OpenStudy (anonymous):

its fine I don't mind

OpenStudy (anonymous):

so would it burn plastic

OpenStudy (anonymous):

here is a whole paragraph all about it

OpenStudy (anonymous):

ok

OpenStudy (anonymous):

What is muriatic acid and how dangerous is it? Muriatic acid as poison Muriatic acid is a highly reactive liquid acid, and one of the MOST DANGEROUS CHEMICALS you can buy for home use. It is an industrial-strength solution of hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water, also known as hydrochloric acid. Yep, muriatic acid is "super stomach acid"! With the exception of some plastics, muriatic acid can damage most anything it touches, including clothing, metal, and skin! It emits a suffocating odor that can quickly burn the lining of the nose, throat and even the lungs. Typical home uses include heavy-duty masonry cleaning, preparation of masonry for painting or sealing, removal of efflorescence or mineral deposits and pH reduction in swimming pools. Its reactive power makes it the chemical of choice for some types of masonry cleaning. Muriatic acid is sold in a standardized concentration of 31.45% acid and 68.55% inert ingredients, primarily water. This is the concentration you are going to find in your local hardware store. Our mixing suggestions are based on this concentration... if the muriatic acid you purchase is stronger, adjust the dilution proportions for the job accordingly. A short anecdote... A hardware store in my area stopped storing muriatic acid. Over a period of years, gaseous seepage from the old containers had begun to dissolve the metal shelving it was stored upon, as well as the metal containers of other products nearby! Fortunately, most muriatic acid sold now is in plastic bottles with safety seals to prevent leakage. And the moral of this story? It is wise to dispose of leftover acid properly and immediately. (See disposal tips at the end of this article.) How does muriatic acid clean masonry and affect paint adhesion? A masonry surface becomes rough, or "etched", when it reacts to strong acids. When the powder residue of the reaction (calcium carbonate) is rinsed off, you are left with a very clean surface. Masonry tends to be alkaline, which prevents proper adhesion of many coatings and paint products. Acid washing neutralizes this alkalinity, leaving a coating-friendly surface. (Note: Before coating masonry check the coating's label for acceptable surface alkalinity. pH Test kits are available for precise measurements.) Are there safer chemical alternatives to muriatic acid? Muriatic acid is not the first choice for masonry cleaning but the last resort. Do not use this dangerous chemical unless you are sure you have no other choice. For example, the most popular concrete and grout cleaners on the market contain phosphoric acid. This acid will, under most circumstances, do as good a job as muriatic acid... but with less danger. Phosphoric acid cleaners also contain chemicals which emulsify oils to help the acid work more effectively and safely increase its cleaning properties. Corrosive chemical warning symbol TSP (trisodium phosphate) is another formidable heavy-duty cleaning product and can be used to clean masonry surfaces that are going to be left uncoated. TSP does not etch or neutralize the surface alkalinity, so surface testing for pH should be done before coating TSP-cleaned masonry. Due to environmental concerns of phosphate pollution, TSP cannot be legally used in some areas. DO NOT MIX TSP WITH ANY ACID!! A violent reaction can occur and the release of noxious gas. You can use both products, but they must be used separately with a thorough rinsing with water between applications. Can masonry be cleaned without chemicals? Warning - corrosive material Mechanical cleaning methods such as sandblasting, abrasive wheels and special power tools for cleaning mortar lines in brick and concrete block may be preferable to muriatic acid. These can be rented at many rental centers or hardware stores, where you will also receive instruction in their use. Can muriatic acid be used safely? Only with proper preparation! Muriatic acid must be used with EXTREME CAUTION!! I cannot emphasize this enough. Contact with the eyes, for example, can cause irreversible damage and permanent blindness. Contact with the skin even for a few moments can cause severe burns. Got it? 1) Dress appropriately. Don't wear your "Sunday-go-to-meeting" clothes. Gauntlet-style acid-resistant gloves are a must, as is eye and/or full-face protection. A NIOSH-approved respirator equipped with the appropriate acid-grade filter should be worn. Many hardware and paint stores sell vinyl-coated coveralls that offer some acid resistance. Rubber boots are also recommended. 2) Have a neutralizing agent and a reliable, steady source of water available Baking soda or garden lime can quickly neutralize the acid if spilled. Water should be freely available in case you accidentally get acid on your skin. (More information on neutralizing muriatic acid at the end of this article.) Since muriatic acid can damage or kill foliage, cover or wet all nearby foliage with water before application of the acid. If the foliage has been accidentally sprayed with acid, a neutralizing mix of lime and water can be applied to the plant and/or soil. Be careful and check with a garden pro if necessary before doing any acid treatments or applying lime around sensitive plants! 3) You must have adequate ventilation... Use a fan to bring fresh air to the work area if necessary. Muriatic acid is nonflammable, but the vapors are highly corrosive and irritating. Also, there is always the chance of a chemical reaction that will produce hydrogen gas, which is extremely flammable. Remember the tragic explosion of the hydrogen-filled zeppelin Hindenburg? 4) Using muriatic acid indoors is not recommended, since the corrosive vapors can begin chemical reactions in metals that are difficult to stop, leading to long-term, permanent damage in both appliances and electronics! 5) Accident cleanups... what if you spill muriatic acid? Scroll to the end of this article on cleanup and disposal recommendations. How is muriatic acid mixed and applied? Muriatic acid is always diluted before use. The standard dilution for most applications is one part muriatic acid to ten parts water. Be careful when mixing to avoid splashing the acid. Do not mix in a paper, ceramic or metal bucket... use a plastic bucket. Glass containers are also acceptable for measuring and mixing.

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